HL-G30 Hub Kits
Erabiltzailearen gida
HL-G30 Hub Kits
Fitting Guide for HL/G30 Hub Kits
Garrantzitsua: Zure segurtasunerako, eskuliburu hau irakurri behar duzu kit hau egokitzen saiatu aurretik. Era berean, kit-a eskuliburu honetako argibideekin bat etorriz egokitzen duzula ziurtatu behar duzu.
Tel: 01702 435566
E-mail: support@wooshbikes.co.uk
Before you start the installation of your kit, please read the following:
Kit hau bizikletan kit elektrikoak muntatzen trebea eta trebea den norbaitek instalatu nahi du. Esperientziarik ez baduzu edo/eta eskuliburu honetako prozeduraren bat burutzeko beharrezko tresnarik ez baduzu, kit-a zuretzako egokitu dezakeen profesional baten aholkua bilatu beharko zenuke. Beharrezkoa izanez gero, deitu 01702 435566 telefonora edo bidali e-posta helbidera support@wooshbikes.co.uk eta saiatuko zaitugu zure inguruko norbaitekin harremanetan jartzen zure kit-a behar bezala egokitzeko beharrezkoa den esperientzia duena. Noski, teknikariak ordaindu beharko duzu zure kita instalatzeko, kostu horiek ez ditu Woosh Bikes-ek estaltzen.
Berme-baldintzak:
If your kit is fitted by a professional installer, it will be covered by our standard one year warranty, which means that in the event of a failure, you would first need to have the person that installed your kit confirm the issue and likely cause, then you (or the installer) would need to contact us and provide us with the details of the fault. If the issue cannot be resolved over the phone or via email, then you would need to return the faulty part to us at your expense. We will then repair or replace the faulty part and send it back to you at our expense. If the kit was not fitted by a professional and/or the failure that has occurred is due to poor/incorrect installation, or the kit has been used improperly, the warranty will be voided.
Kaxkoan dagoena
Ziurtatu behean zerrendatutako pieza guztiak dituzula aurrerago joan aurretik; piezak falta badira, jar zaitez gurekin harremanetan 01702 435566 telefonora.
The motor kit comprises of a motor wheel with hub motor, a battery cradle with integral controller, a battery, a charger, modular cable/loom, pedal-assist sensor, a thumb throttle, brake sensors and a KingMeter KM529 LCD. Ensure that you have all of these items, a photo of the items is show below so you can easily identify each of the parts. Not shown in the photo below are the battery itself , the charger, and the motor wheel (which will differ depending on the type ordered), ensure you have the complete kit before you start.
HL Kit
G30 Kit As above but with different battery and cradle
Pedelec Assist Sensor (PAS) mota ezberdinen instalazioa
Hiru PAS mota erabil daitezke, bi bizikletaren eskuineko aldean kate-eraztunaren eta markoaren artean sartzen direnak, eta ezkerreko sentsorea, beheko euskarriaren amaieran sartzen dena.
The right-side PAS kit consists of two parts, these are the sensor itself and the PAS disc. There are two different options for the disc/magnet-ring part of the PAS kit (see below-right), depending on whether you have a square taper bottom bracket or something else. In all cases, the sensor ring is mounted behind the lip of the fixed cup, or behind the right bearing shell (in the case of a BB with external bearings).
The PAS disc for square taper bottom brackets is simply slid down the axle so that it is close to, but not touching the sensor. For all other types of bottom bracket, you would need to use the alternate disc which comes in three parts–the two halves of the magnet ring, and the support/mounting plate. Ideally, the mounting plate is cable-tied to the smallest chain ring (using the loops around the outside of the plate), and the two halves of the magnet ring are then glued to the plate. In some cases, there is not always enough room to do this, and the ring needs to be bonded directly to the smallest chain ring and/or you may need to use the seat-post mounted sensor instead–see next page.
Instalazio oharrak: You need to ensure that the disc is the correct way around on the axle. The disc should be fitted such that the arrows on the disc are on the left side (facing the sensor). For other non-square taper bottom brackets, the two halves of the magnet ring only fit on the mounting plate one way, so you can’t get it wrong.
Kanpoko errodamenduen maskorekin, batzuetan beharrezkoa da tarte bat oskolaren atzean jartzea, hauek horni ditzakegu, baina kasu askotan, ezkerretik bat hartu eta eskuinera eraman dezakezu.
Seat-post mounted PAS:
The seat-post mounted sensor is shown below and is simply cable-tied to the lower part of the seat tube. If the sensor isn’t sitting back far enough, it is possible to remove one of the plastic spacers on the rear of the mounting buy simply undoing the bolt and then removing the lower of the two spacers. The sensor should be positioned as shown below-right, so that the magnets pass by the correct part of the sensor.
Ezkerreko pedelec laguntza-sentsorea (PAS):
The left-side PAS slides down the axle on the left side of the bottom bracket and meshes with the splines. This PAS is not suitable for all square-taper bottom brackets, if you have a plastic cup (as opposed to a metal cup), the left-side PAS will likely not be suitable. Although they look very similar, the left-side PAS will not mesh with the plastic cup.
The left-side PAS requires a gap of 7mm between the rear face of the left crank and the bottom bracket. if it is less, you may need to shave a little off the rear face of the crank to avoid crushing the PAS when you re-fit the crank. Alternatively, we usually have in stock 127mm bottom brackets that in most cases would give you the space you require.
HL Bateria/Kontroladorea
Kit honekin sartzen den HL bateria-sehaska/kontrolagailua zure beheranzko hodian muntatzen da, zure botilaren euskarria normalean egongo litzatekeen tokian. Bizikletak finkatze horiek ez baditu edo posizio egokian ez badaude, azkoinak jarri beharko dituzu (hornituta) bateriaren euskarria muntatu ahal izateko. Ziurtatu sehaska beherako hodian zehar behar bezain altu muntatzen duzula, sehaska kate-eraztunean zikin ez dadin. Gainera, bateriaren goiko muturrean nahikoa tartea dagoela ziurtatu beharko duzu, bateria apur bat gorantz irristatu behar da kentzean. Kontuz euskaria oso baxu ez muntatzea, bestela bateriak eserlekuaren hodiaren aurka jo dezakeela ikusiko duzu, euskarrian guztiz sartu baino lehen. Behar den lekua 38 x 10 cm-koa da.
Ez ahaztu hornitutako garbigailuak eta gomazko euskarriak erabiltzea (behean ageri direnak). Sehaska markora zirribilak/euskarriak erabili gabe lotzen badituzu, plastikoa deformatuko da eta azkenean hautsi egingo da.
Sehaska markoari lotu ondoren, jarri bateria eta egiaztatu behar bezala egokitzen dela. Ondoren, kendu bateria sehaskatik eta jarraitu kitaren instalazioarekin. EZ jarraitu instalatzen bateria jarrita. Bateria berriro jarri behar duzu kable guztiak behar bezala amaitu/seguru eta kitaren instalazioa amaitu denean soilik. Bateria atxikita uzten baduzu, agian zerbait laburtu dezakezu ustekabean eta bateria eta/edo kitaren osagaiak kaltetu ditzakezu.
Motor gurpilak: There are several different options for the motor wheel, front, rear, 26″, 700c, cassette hubs, freewheel hubs etc. We would normally have identified the motor/wheel that would best suit your bike before the order was placed.
G30 Bateria/Kontroladorea
The G30 battery-cradle/controller included with this kit mounts on your down-tube, where your bottle holder would normally be. If the bike does not have these fixings or they are not in a suitable position, you will need to fit riv-nuts (supplied) to allow you to mount the battery cradle. Ensure that you mount the cradle high enough along the down-tube so that the cradle doesn’t foul on the chain-ring. The battery requires a space of 18cm x 7.5cm
Ez ahaztu gomazko tarteak/euskarria (behean ageri diren) egokitzea.
Sehaska markoari lotu ondoren (hornitutako torlojuak erabiliz), jarri bateria eta egiaztatu behar bezala egokitzen dela eta blokeoa funtzionatzen ari dela. Ondoren, kendu bateria sehaskatik eta jarraitu kitaren instalazioarekin. EZ jarraitu instalatzen bateria jarrita. Kable guztiak behar bezala amaitu/seguru eta kitaren instalazioa amaitutakoan bateria berriro jarri behar duzu.
Motor gurpilak:
There are several different options for the motor wheel, front, rear, 26″, 700c, cassette hubs, freewheel hubs etc. We would normally have identified the motor/wheel that would best suit your bike before the order was placed.
85SX
Important note for purchasers of the 85SX motor wheel You must NOT use rotor bolts longer than 10mm. Longer bolts will protrude too far into the motor housing and will damage the motor.
Motor Gurpil
Alda ezazu pneumatikoa, hodia eta gurpil librea/kasetea (atzeko gurpilaren kasuan) jatorrizko gurpiletik motorraren gurpilarekin.
The wheel comes with the nuts and washers that you will need, they should normally be fitted in the order shown below, but sometimes it is necessary to re-arrange them, or to fit additional washers to ensure the wheel is correctly aligned. The anti-rotation washer for instance, can be flipped around and fitted on outside of the drop-outs if necessary. If you have disc brakes, loosen the two bolts indicated below-left before fitting the wheel to the bike. This will allow you to make any minor adjustments immediately. If you are experienced, you can remove the callipers if you prefer and re-fit them later. Don’t forget to tighten the calliper bolts after the wheel is correctly fitted and the rotor correctly aligned.
The normal order for the nuts/washers is as below-left, but as mentioned above, it may be necessary to re -arrange them to suit your particular bike. On the drive-side, try to leave enough space so that if the chain were to come off, it won’t get jammed between the frame and cassette/freewheel.
Ziurtatu motor-kablea beherantz irteten dela eta, gainera, ziurtatu metalezko bobina kabletik behera nahikoa urrun dagoela, kablea ardatzetik irteten den ertzetatik babestu dezan. Eskuz gehiago lerratu daiteke posizio egokian ez badago.
There is a cut-out where the cable exits the axle. This cut-out and the cable should face downwards towards the ground. In the case of a front wheel, the cable should also exit downwards before looping back up towards the fork. This is to prevent waNut ter collecting at the aperture
Gurpilaren instalazioa amaitzeko, jarri azkoinen estalkiak. Ezkerreko alboko estalkiak bultza egiten du, diskoaren alboko estalkia kabletik behera irristatu behar da eta behean eskuinaldean agertzen den moduan jarri behar da.
The red arrow on the diagram above-right shows the typical route for the motor cable (in the case of a rear hub conversion), with the quick-release connector (in the cable) indicated by the solid red box. Remember to properly secure these cables to the frame using cable-ties before riding the bike.
Kablearen orientazioa:
Posible da aurreko motorraren gurpilak modu okerrean jartzea, eta, beraz, ezbeharren bat saihesteko, begiratu beheko taula eta ziurtatu gurpila behar bezala jarrita dagoela. XF07 aurrealdeko hubaren instalazio guztietan, gurpila motorraren kablea eskuineko albotik irteten den egokitu behar da.
| Motor Gurpil | Orientazioa |
| XF07 Front Hub | Cable exits the right side of the hub |
| XF08 Rear Hub | Cable exits the right side of the hub |
| SWX02 Rear Hub | Cable exits the right side of the hub |
| DGW22C Rear Hub | Cable exits the right side of the hub |
| SX85 Rear Hub | Cable exits the left side of the hub |
| G060500DC Rear Hub | Cable exits the right side of the hub |
| Q70 Front Hub (Brompton Kit) | Cable exits the left side of the hub |
Eskulekuaren osagaiak:
The display would normally be mounted on the left side. If you decide not to fit the throttle (a lot of people don’t), then it is not necessary to fit brake cut-outs. If you are using throttle, you will need to fit one of the three types of brake cut-outs: Levers (for cabled brakes), inline sensors (for cabled brakes), hydraulic sensors which can also be used for cabled brakes in situations where the gear shifter and brake levers are a single unit.
To fit the thumb-throttle & brake levers (if being used), slide the grips off, loosen the existing components, and remove any that are being replaced, then slide the thumb-throttle (and levers if being used) in place and then re-tighten the bolts to secure them in place. The display has a clamp, eta beraz, gainerako osagaiak posizioan egon ondoren jarri behar dira. Baloia unibertsala da eta bi aldeetan jar daiteke.
If you have hydraulic brakes or brake levers that have an integral gear shifter, you will need to use the hydraulic sensors. As the magnet moves away from the sensor, the cut-out is activated, it should be fitted as shown below.
Lineako sentsoreak: Elikatu balazta-kablea behean eskuinaldean agertzen den moduan. Ziurtatu sentsorearen eta kanoi-doigailuaren arteko plastikozko txertaketa erabiltzen duzula.
The next step is to run the modular cable (for the LCD, throttle and brake cut-outs) from the front of the bike, to the controller.
Ensure that there is enough play in the cables so that they do not get stretched or pulled as the handlebars are rotated.
The connectors are all colour coded and should be mated with the matching colours on the modular cabling. There are arrows on each connector which must be lined up before pushing the connectors together. In some instances, the cable from the LCD may be green, this mates with the black/green connector.
Ziurtatu geziak bi aldeetatik lerrokatuta daudela konektoreak elkarrekin tinko bultzatu aurretik, kontuz ibili haiekin eta ez behartu, bestela pinak okertu/kalte ditzakezu. Gainera, ziurtatu kableak bat datozen koloretako konektoreekin lotzen dituzula.
Zure kit-a zein balazta-sentsore/palankekin hornitzen den, ehungailuko konektoreak goian agertzen direnekin desberdinak izan daitezke. Zure kit lineako balazta-sentsoreekin hornitzen bazen, hiru konektore hori izango dituzu, bata akasorako eta beste bat lineako sentsore bakoitzeko.
Kableetan laxotasun handiegia badaukazu, kolpatu eta lotuekin lotu beharko dituzu ahalik eta txukunen. Ziurtatu kableetako bat ez dagoela solte zintzilik edo bizikleta ibiltzen ari den bitartean beste edozein ataletan harrapa daitezkeen posizioan.
Abiadura-sentsorea:
Ohar: Orain hornitzen ditugun kit gehienek ez dute kanpoko abiadura sentsorerik behar, zentroan eraikita dago. Kasu horietan, ez duzu zure kitarekin abiadura sentsorerik jasoko, eta hurrengo orrialdera joan zaitezke.
Abiadura-sentsoreak bi zati ditu, sentsorea bera eta erradioetako bati lotuta dagoen iman bat. Sentsorea normalean atzeko aldean jartzen da. Abiadura-sentsorea katearen barrualdean erdi-bidean muntatuta dago beheko diagraman (gorriz) erakusten den moduan. Besterik gabe, lotu sentsorea markoari kable-lotuekin, baliteke sentsorearen eta markoaren artean tarte bat jartzea beharrezkoa izatea sentsorea imanera hurbiltzeko; bestela, baliteke ez.
Pasatu kablea kate-euskarritik goian GORRIAn adierazitako moduan, kable-lotuekin lotuz eta kablea gurpiletik/pneumatikotik urrun dagoela ziurtatuz. Ikusi hurrengo orrialdea kontrolagailurako hainbat konexio ikusteko.
Kontrolagailuaren konexioak:
Exiting from the bottom of the battery cradle are three or four cables, these are for the speed sensor, the motor wheel, the pedelec sensor and the modular cable. The modular cable runs up to the handlebars and connects to the display unit, the thumb-throttle and the brake levers. All of the connectors have arrows on them that need to be correctly aligned before pushing the connectors firmly together.
** Note for wheels with hall-sensors (9-pin motor cable):
If your motor has hall/speed sensors built-in, you will have a 9-pin connector on the motor cable, (instead of a 3-pin cable) and you will NOT have a cable for a speed sensor. The controller for motors with hall-sensors will only have three cables exiting from the bottom of the cradle, instead of four.
LCD–Control Panel
The display has many advanced features and modes, these include back-lit display (for night riding), indicator options for max speed, average speed and current speed and a battery power indicator. It also features a walking mode which is used when you want to wheel/push the bike, this is basically a very low speed mode which is activated by pressing and holding the minus (-) button, this can also be used as a start-aid.
Abisua: Pantaila aurrez konfiguratuta dator eta 15 mph-ra mugatuta dago. Ezarpen okerrak kitaren osagaiak kaltetu ditzake eta Erresuma Batuko errepideetan legezkoa ez den bizikleta ere eragin dezake. Kontrolagailuaren konfigurazioan egindako aldaketek zure bermea baliogabetuko dute hutsegite baten eragilea dela ikusten bada.
Kontrol-modulua piztu/desaktibatu
Kontrol-modulua pizteko, eduki sakatuta goiko (Modua) botoia. Eduki sakatuta botoi bera modulua itzaltzeko eta bizikletaren funtzio elektriko guztiak desgaitzeko.
Atzeko argia piztu/desaktibatu
Pantailaren atzeko argia pizteko, eduki sakatuta "Gora" botoia. Luze sakatu botoi bera itzaltzeko.
Pedalaren laguntza maila aldakorra
Emandako laguntza-maila aldatzeko, sakatu gora/behera geziak 5 laguntza-mailak zeharkatzeko. 1. mailak laguntza gutxien eskaintzen du eta 5. mailak laguntza handiena eskaintzen du.
Abiadura bistaratzeko modua
There are three different modes for the speed display, these are current speed, average speed and maximum speed. To switch between these modes, press and hold the “Up and Mode” buttons for approx. 1 second to cycle through the modes.
Walking Mode/Start Aid
The bike also supports a walking mode which is basically a very slow mode allowing you to walk next to the bike at approx. 6m/h. This is activated by pressing and holding the “Down” button. As soon as the button is released, the bike will stop. This can be used to start off, if you find it difficult from a stand-still.
Bistaratzeko modua
To switch between Odo (overall distance travelled) and Trip mode (current trip distance travelled), press the “Mode” button. To reset the trip computer press and hold both the top and bottom buttons.
Bateria zaintzea:
Some care is needed to ensure that the battery performs at its best and lasts as long as possible. All batteries age over time, and the way that they age is that the range you can achieve will gradually decrease. Follow the instructions below to ensure your battery performs as well as possibly for as long as possible. Charge the battery once or twice per week as needed. Do NOT charge the battery in extremely cold conditions. The battery can be easily removed from the bike and charged whilst off the bike if it’s more convenient. Allow the battery to warm up to room temperature before charging. If the battery is not in regular use i.e. over the winter, you should charge the battery for around 10 minutes ever three to four weeks. When the bike is to be put back into service, fully charge the battery as normal. Try and keep the battery around two thirds full when not being used.
Bateriaren zainketa orokorra:
Ez saiatu bateriaren kanpoko karkasa irekitzen.
Ez saiatu bateria konpontzen.
Ez sartu bateria uretan.
Ez utzi bateria haurrentzat.
Ez erori, zulatu edo bestela kaltetu bateria.
Ziurtatu bateria ez dagoela 55 gradu Celsius-tik gorako tenperaturetara edo muturreko hezetasunetara.
Ez erabili bizikleta tenperatura -5 gradutik beherakoa edo 55 gradu Celsius baino handiagoa den ingurune batean.
Neguko hilabeteetan litiozko bateriek ez dute bere onenean funtzionatzen, eta, beraz, tartea alda daiteke urtaro batetik bestera.
Bateria kargatzen:
Plug the charger into the socket on the right-side of the battery, then plug the other end into the mains socket and switch it on. While the battery is charging, the LED on the charger will glow RED, when charging is complete, the LED will go GREEN. If the charger is on but not attached to the battery, the LED will also be GREEN. If you experience a sudden drop in capacity, run the battery down quite low, then fully charge it. Once full, leave the charger switched on and connected to the battery for a further two hours. This will help to balance the cells internally and restore normal operation.
Bateriaren funtzionamendua:
The HL and G30 batteries are effectively always on, and when the button at the top is pressed, it shows the current state of the battery–the more lights illuminated, the more full the battery is.
Arazoak konpontzea (HL bateria):
Bizikleta moztuta, pantaila itzaltzen da ibiltzen den bitartean:
Hilabete batzuen buruan pantaila/motorra mozten dela ikusten baduzu, litekeena da bateriaren beheko aldean dauden kontaktuek garbiketa/doikuntzaren bat behar izatea. Normalean ez da hau baino ezer gehiago.
Garbitu gehiegizko koipea, eta, ondoren, erabili koktel-makila bat edo bihurkin lau txiki bat kontaktuak barrurantz flexionatzeko. Eskuineko goiko aldean terminal indibidual baten lehen planoa ageri da eta tolestu behar diren piezak erakusten ditu. Kanpoko terminaletan bakarrik egin behar da, erdikoak ez daudelako konektatuta.
25 errorea pantailan:
Errore-mezu honek balazta-sentsoreekin arazo bat adierazten du. Errore hau ikusten ari bazara, litekeena da bizikletak laguntzarik ez ematea eta akatsak ez funtzionatzea. Matxura zein sentsore duen jakiteko, deskonektatu sentsore bat eta gero bestea arazoa zein sentsore duen jakin arte. Palankak edo lineako sentsoreak badituzu, akastunak ordezkatu beharko du. Mota hidraulikoko sentsoreak badituzu, litekeena da imana sentsoretik gehiegi urrundu izana, eta normalean imana sentsorera hurbilduz konpondu daiteke.
Rack bateria:
The rack batteries (unlike the downtube batteries) have a switch towards the rear left of the unit which is used to turn the battery on/off–a master-switch effectively.
At the very end (the rear-most part) of the battery), there is small button in the middle, pressing this button firmly and holding it will illuminate the LED’s either side of the button. This is used to give a rough indication of the battery status– if all LED’s are illuminated (regardless of colour) this means that the battery is full (or thereabouts). As the battery drains, the lights will go out one by one, until only the red LED’s remain. If only the red LED’s illuminate when pushing the button, the battery should be charged soon.
LEDek ezin dute inoiz kolorea aldatu, LED gorriak ez dute egingo, eta ezin dira inoiz berde bihurtu.
Rack-en bateriak kargatzea hodiko bateriekin egiten den modu berean egiten da, eta bateriarekin edo bizikletatik kanpo egin daiteke. Bateria kargatzen ari denean, kargagailuko LEDa gorria izango da, kargatzen amaitzean, LEDa berde jarriko da. LEDa berdea ere egongo da kargagailua piztuta dagoenean, baina EZ bateria batera konektatuta.
Kitak funtzionatzen duela baina potentzia handirik ez duela dirudi, edo kitak funtzionatzen duela baina abiadurarik ez badu adierazten pantailan. Litekeena da kontrolagailuaren kablea kontrolagailutik datorren kablearekin bat egiten duen konexioa guztiz bat ez egotea. Konektorea bultzatu behar da emearen aldea guztiz gora bultzatzeko gizonezkoaren aldean lerrokatzeko.
Woosh laguntza:
Kit support is done primarily via email. This way it’s possible for us to keep track of your case much more easily than when support is conducted over the phone. Using email allows us to refer back to previous conversations quickly and easily, and also allows us to receive photos/videos from the customer illustrating the issue. This, in turn allows us to provide written instructions with photos where necessary to help get you back up and running as quickly as possible.
If you have an issue, and it’s something that can be shown in a photo or video, please email over the details including the photos etc. and we will get back to you ASAP, normally later the same day.
Laguntza-langileak ez daude eskuragarri asteburuetan, asteburuan jasotako mezu elektronikoak hurrengo lanegunean irakurri eta erantzungo dira.
email: support@wooshbikes.co.uk
© 2021 Woosh Bikes Limited
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